Sunday, February 15, 2009

Here are the promised camp pictures!






Ready to go on the first day! No giant footlockers full of stuff for Kyrgyz children. Five days (including sheets and slippers) in one plastic bag. Americans can learn a little something about packing lightly from them.













The whole camp, with volunteers and helpers!














The awesome ladies who ran the sanatorium where camp was.











If Peace Corps has taught us nothing, it's innovation. An empty pool became a volleyball court and a broken chair, sticks, and packing tape became a basketball hoop...











Team-building and problem solving were fun sessions...













Me, Martha, and a curious kid coloring in certificates.















Dance class was a hit!









More dancing










The boys loved watching Step Up 2: The Streets.








Girls working on a poster











Boys working on a poster













More team building













Me and a helper (Begimai) teaching a self-esteem lesson















Cross dressing and dancing were popular at the talent show



"girls" performing at the talent show








Just being girls... Cross dressing is a popular joke here in Kyrgyzstan.




Thursday, February 12, 2009

A lot has happened in the past few weeks!
First, last week was the Bazarkorgon winter camp. Than meant five days of overnight camp with 38 7th and 8th form (12-14 year-old) kids. We had so much fun and everything went amazingly well the whole time. The kids were adorble and relatively well-behaved. The worst incident (and this goes to show just how good they were) showed just how much American movies are corrpting the world. By that, I probably mean the Lindsay Lohan "Parent Trap". On the first day, some boys asked us if they could put toothpaste on the girls' faces while they were sleeping. We obviously said no. Two days later, we were woken up at 4 AM to the sould of running and laughing (boys) and screaming and crying (girls). It seems the boys had ignored our rule and snuck into the girls' room, toothpaste in hand, ready to wage war. We were not pleased, mostly because it was 4 AM and our rooms had only three walls and a curtain, so the children were unavoidable. When we threatened to take away their talent show, tey all straightened up and behaved for the rest of the week. The camp iself was a "Life Skills" camp (that's how we got the funding -- obviously the most important part). All day, we had three hour-long sessions. I taught one on self-esteem and one on community service/volunteerism. One of the best things about our camp was the group of nine 11th form and university students who were our "helpers". They all had good English, so they served as our translators, counsillers, and friends throughout. Because of their help, we were able to talk about much more complicated topics than our Kyrgyz would otherwise allow. After the sessions, we had activity time for two hours. The activities included English club, sports, movie, arts and crafts, and (most importantly!) dance. I had choreographed a simple dance to NSYNC's "Here We Go" thinking that teaching it would last me the three days of activities. In the first hour-long class, the girls had learned the whole thing! I also had a really sweet helper ith me the whole time (who is an awesome belly dancer -- really popular here) and other visitors because dance is obviously the most fun... My helper, Ika, taught a swing dance and I choreographed another dance on the spot to fill up the rest of the time. The girls (and even a few boys, after Joni's session on gender stereotypes) were so cute and excited to dance with me. They performed all three dances at the talent show, and looked fantastic. It made me realize how much I missed dancing. I've already arranged a dance club at my school to start next week!
Overall, camp was a huge success. The kids had a great time. On the last day, we got trapped by all 38 of them crowding around us volunteers and begging for "autographs" in their notebooks. My hand was cramping by the end. We're already gearing up for summer camp in July in Arslenbob (only the world's largest walnut forest...)
While we were at camp, other news was breaking. Frst, we heard that the US Airbase (Manas) in Bishkek was probably closing. While this doesn't directly affect us, it's putting us on our toes a little. None of us really want to be kicked out of the country quite yet...
Also while we were at camp, there was intra-peace corps drama. Because of it, an apartment in Jalalabad opened up, so I now have my very own apartment! I got it approved on Tuesday morning and moved in on Tuesday afternoon. Now I'm working on unpacking, getting settled in, and decorating. It's really great to have my own place finally and to be able to settle down for a whild. My last year has involved moving in May, July, Septemer, December, and now February. It is fitting that I would become a nomad in Kyrgyzstan, but that doesn't mean that I like it. I feel like much more of a grown-up now waking up in my own apartment, commuting to work, coming home, making dinner, amusing myself.. All this time with host families has made me realize just how much I value my independence, control over my own life, and time to myself. I feel like I'm finally settling into what I'm supposed to be doing here (right after the 7 month in country mark...) between my apartment and being at school full-time. Now I see what the next year and a half (almost exactly) should look like.
I'm in the middle of my first real week of school now. It's been going really well -- my conterpart is amazing and my students are great. As I write this, I'm sitting on a bench outside (it's still a bit cold, but pleasant with a coat on) between classes. A policeman who guards the school (?) is pacing in front of me asking various questions and commenting on how much I am writing (so much! bad for my eyes...) while adorable little children run by. It's nice having breaks between classes every day, even though I was told no one can go down the hall where the teachers' room is. I have no idea why, but that explains my presense on the bench.
Otherwise, most of the volunteers who went home or to other places for vacations this winter have returned, though Sarah just left for Gong Kong (Kyrgyz people replace "H" with "G"-- Garry Potter, Gamburgers, Gitler, Holly -- you may be "Golly" here.), so it's nice to have most of the family back together again. We're headed to Bishkek again in less than month for PDM (Project Design and Managment) training -- the last group get-together until COS conference next summer! Straight after that,my friend Nick (who lives in Karakol -- the complete other side of the country) is coming to visit. I'm very excited, because I love sharing my homes with people I'm close to and this city is so hard to understand if you haven't seen it. (The cop just asked if I'm sad -- I guess that's the only way to justify writing this much. I showed him a picture of my family I had in my notebook and he pointed at me,gave a thumbs up, and said (in English) 'I love you'. Now he's intently watching me write. Good thing he has no idea what I"m writing...)
And to close this with a story: On Tuesday, to move all of my stuff from my house to my apartment, I flagged down a car (a Tico -- a tiny Uzbek car that's all over the South-- kind of the Kyrgyz equivalent of a rickshaw) and explained in Kyrgyz what I needed. The driver said ok and drove me to my house. We started to load everything in the car, but he insisted on doing it in two trips. I didn't feel like fighting much, so I got in the car and we started driving all the way across town. About half-way through the first trip, I finall convinced him that I'm American (as opposed to Uzbek or Turkish -- his first guesses. I take that as a compliment on my Kyrgyz) and continued to beg me to go to a restaurant with him. I spent the ride telling him I wasn't hungry, I have a boyfriend (big, scary, and protective, of course), and that I don't want any friends. I even gave him a fake number to get him to stop begging for it. We got to the apartment, unloaded everything, and started back to my house. This trip was an English lesson. He pulled out a notebook and made me write various English words (spelled out in the cyrillic alphabet). He asked me if I knew how to drive. When I said yes, he stopped the car in the middle of the street and told me to drive. I refused, for obvious reasons, but he kept insisting. He finally took off again, but kept asking me to shift for him. I did no. Once we had unloaded everything from the car, I handed him the money we had agreed on in the beginning. He refused to take it, shook my hand, and walked away. I guess that was payment for my excellent English lesson...
I will probably post some pictures from camp in the next few days, so stay tuned!

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Now that life here is almost feeling normal, I'm starting to think more in terms of topic for these updates. This week's topic is gendered space/activity. Can you tell I miss being in school sometimes? Anyways, in the past week, I have seen both men and women's space firsthand. As for the men: I'd heard about these places but, as a woman, I thought I would possibly go through these two years without ever really seeing one. Last weekend, we had a bunch of people in town for the teacher training (more on this later), and just for fun. Some of the boys decided we should go for "man ash" at an ashkana (ash being rice and carrots and meat, an ashkana being a place that serves that). The restaurant itself was a bit of a hike from Martha' apartment, and is right next to the largest mosque in Jalalabad. Another thing about this ashkana (which Tristan claims serves the best ash in the city) is that you have to order in advance. Some of the boys had gone to order 2.5 kilos (5.5 pounds) of ash. That's a lot of food! They had also gone ahead of us to get a room in the restaurant. When we finally got there, as a group of mostly girls, we walked into a huge room. There were a few raised platforms covered in men lounging and smoking, drinking (tea and vodka), playing cards, and eating. There were also curtained-off platform/tables full of men. When we walked in, they all instantly stopped and stared at us. Not only were we the only women besides the waitresses, but we're also Americans. We're really weird. It was fascinating to see this place, because it's something so foreign to my life here. It seemed more like Dad's experience in Iran than my own experience so far. Luckily, we were in a whole seperate room with doors and walls, so once we were in our room, we were away from the stares. We also managed to devour 5 of the 6 plates of ash and an entire chocolate cake Martha had made. It turned out to be a really great night, for the reasons of the food, the experience,and the company.
As a complete opposite, I also saw the closest thing women have to that in this society (though it is in no way the same). The boy volunteers here have a tradition they call "manya", which is when a bunch of them go together to a fancy male-only banya in the city. In retaliation, us girls started the "vaganya". I went to my first vaganya on Wednsday in Bazarkorgon (the area I used to live in -- I was there for camp training with Sarah and Joni and others). We went to the public banya and spent about an hour washing and enjoying the heat. Most of the Kyrgyz women were completely naked, which I've heard is unusual, but were enjoying themselves. The girls who went in together helped each other wash and brush their hair and everything. It was nice to see a group of only women relaxing and lounging, almost like the men in the ashkana.
Otherwise, this week, the big new was the teacher training workshop we had last weekend. Of the 50 teahcers we invited, 47 showed up, which is a really great turnout. The sessions (teachig reading, teaching writing, and teaching listening and speaking)went really well, and the teachers seemed very into it and interested in what the presenters had to say. Overall, a huge success!
Next week is the Bazarkorgon winter camp. I'm leaving on Sunday to spend 5 days there with 40 7th and 8th graders. The focus of the camp is "life skills", so I'm teaching a session on self-esteem and one on community service/volunteerism. I'm also teaching two hours of dance every night. I already choreographed an awesome dance to NSYNC "Here we go" for my students to perform at the talent show on the last night. It should be a lot of fun. We also have 6 older kids (11th form or university students) who are going to be the councilers, and they'll be helping with the teaching and activities and everything. It should be pretty intense (especially since I'm coming down with a pretty nasty cold right now), but it should be a lot of fun.
I'll be pretty out of touch from Sunday until Friday, so don't be surprised when I don't respond you any messages.
Happy almost February!

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

I just passed a big milestone in my service. IST (in-service training) has been that far-off thing to look forward to since PST (pre-service training). Now that it’s over, I feel like I’ve accomplished something and that I’ve actually made a dent in my time here. The end of IST also came with the ¼ of my service mark. Less than 20 months until COS (close of service. Peace Corps (PC) uses a lot of abbreviations. I’m losing the ability to speak in full words…). It’s easy to get wrapped up in the day-to-day stuff and sometimes life here feels like I’m never leaving here (which is either positive or negative, depending on the time and place), but every once in a while, the little things hit me and remind me that this is a very temporary thing that I’m doing.
There are several big things to say. First, last Saturday (Jan 10th), a bunch of us were hanging out in the city, watching a movie, when Ariel’s phone rang. All I heard was “Hey Fritz! Oh god, we’ll be right there”. She then said “guys, Fritz thinks Ginger just had a stroke” and we all jumped up, got our coats and shoes on, and ran out the door. It turned out Ginger had been in the banya (sauna) and had gotten heatstroke and was severely dehydrated. When she passed out, she hurt her ankle, scraped her knee, and banged her head on the door frame. Luckily for all of us, Ariel is a licensed EMT, so she knew exactly what to do. She got her hydrated, bandaged up, and we left to let her rest. The next day we all flew to Bishkek for IST. While there, Ginger got an MRI that showed that her foot was broken, so she and Fritz are being medevaced (medical evacuation… I warned you) to DC for her to have surgery. They’ll be gone for probably about a month, for the surgery and PT. I’m really going to miss having them around – this city is going to be lonely with just me and Martha.
Also, my program manager may have found an apartment for me to live in soon! She knows someone (a former PC employee) who owns an apartment in the center of the city that should be free soon, and Maria wants me to have it, which would be amazing!
The big news is IST itself. I flew out last Sunday (January 11) and just got home this Sunday (January 18). The first two days of the conference were with our counterparts , so we talked about team-teaching and the importance of working together and stuff. The other three days were language, culture, and technical (teaching) training. It was pretty intense (going from 8:00- 5 or 6:00 every day), but a lot of fun. It was especially great to see all of the other volunteers who I hadn’t seen since September. We all hung out every night until late and talked between sessions and during meals. Jalalabad won so many people over as the best oblast to live in (because it is…). We even won (with a little scandal worked in) a traditional oblast competition (thanks in part to me!). It was funny how much we still clung to each other, despite the fact that everyone else was around and we see each other all the time. That’s testament to how much we actually like each other. We formed our own dance parties most nights, rocking side ponytails that we became known and loved for. Besides training and partying, I also had a chance to have amazing (for being in Kyrgyzstan for so long) food. Most notably: bacon cheeseburger and nachos one night, Chinese food (eaten with my hands out of plastic bags on Lorenzo’s bed, but still amazing), pepperoni pizza, falafel and hummus, and amazing cheese. No one can really understand how amazing that is, but it’s the highlight of my month…
We also found a little piece of America in Bishkek – we somehow stumbled upon a ridiculously nice mall in the middle of Bishkek that had United Colors of Benetton, Levis, Columbia Sportswear, and other really really nice stores (that I couldn’t afford a single thing from…). The highlight, however, was the grocery store with an amazing cheese selection and anything else I could ever want. It’s amazing how comforting those little pieces of home can be after over six months away. And how much I miss good cheese…
Otherwise, the new semester starts tomorrow, and my first time actually working with my counterpart. She and Ginger had been working on a big teacher training seminar that’s this week, but it didn’t get the funding they were expecting, and then Ginger had to go to the US, so it’s been dropped down to a one-day thing and Lorenzo (a K15 from Karakol who’s visiting for the week for the training and to visit us in the best oblast ever) and I have taken over with Aliya (my counterpart). We worked for a while on Monday to get it straightened out, and have some more to get done in the next few days. The training is on Friday, but it should run smoothly. On Saturday, my counterpart is having minor surgery (on her foot too – we’re not doing well here in with feet), but after she’s recovered from that, we should be able to focus on classes and other related projects.
One of my favorite parts of IST was the Uzbek language classes we had with an Uzbek woman who teaches Russian during training. We (people from the South – Osh and Jalalabad) had confronted the staff that we thought more attention should be paid to Uzbeks during trainings, especially for people going to the South, so they gave us classes with Malika, the tutor. She was an amazing teacher, and it was really great to have the differences I’ve been hearing and trying to figure out for so long explained in an organized way. One of the best parts about her was also her explanation of some Uzbek cultural things and especially about the war in Uzgen (northern Osh – 30 or 40 minutes from here) in 1990. There was a war between Kyrgyz people and Uzbek people that’s left the area still highly segregated (there are 3 volunteers in the village where the Kyrgyz people fled, leaving the city of Uzgen mostly Uzbek). I knew the war had happened, but I had no idea how bad it was, and her description was really depressing but amazing to hear. I’m going to try to do something here about the relationship between the two cultures, but I’m not sure what yet since it’s such a divisive issue.
Also exciting news: My friend Sarah and I are planning a hardcore vacation for this summer. Our plan is to fly to Moscow and then take the Trans-Mongolian Railway from Moscow to Beijing, through Mongolia and spend 3-4 weeks, getting off the train a few times to spend time in Russia, Mongolia, and China, and then to stay with Sarah’s good friend in Beijing for a while and fly back to Kyrgyzstan from there. I’m really excited because this is really the only time I can ever do anything nearly this exciting and it’s going to be amazing! Plus, we’re going to ride double humped camels.






Doing the Kyrgyz squat on the streets of Jbad











So happy to be home from IST! At the Jbad airport...











Our warm welcome home (notce the poster)















This woul be the Jbad airport. High-tec all the way.











Team J-bad: Fritz, me, Martha (head cheerleader), Ian, Sarah, and Joe.













Me, Lorenzo,and Sarah, doing IST in style.












Fitting multiple people into one person's clothes is always fun.

















Me, Sarah, and Anthony overwhelmed by the Americness of the mall


















Check out this mall. Seriously.


















Spices in the Jalalabad bazaar















Vegetable in the Jalalabad bazaar. And this is the winter!












Fruit!




















Fruit!













Me and New Year's Santa. Also notice that my dream of owning a red coat has finally come true, thanks to Kyrgyzstan.

Monday, December 29, 2008

It's kind of crazy how sometimes things just feel ... right. Yesterday afternoon, I was going into the city to see Fritz and Ginger's new house and have dinner. I left my house (with my iPod going, which makes everything feel more effortless), hailed a marshrutka (minivan bus. They're awesome), and enjoyed the scenic view of the outskirts of the city. During the trip, however, it hit me how smooth it feels now to do things like that. I'm finally feeling like I belong here. Maybe it's because my work situation is working out, or just being more comfortable with everything, or maybe just because The Police were singing to me... It's nice that I'm feeling settled and comfortable now, because I feel like this will make me much more productive and happy. Pretty soon, I'm meeting other volunteers for lunch at one of our favorite cafes that we've named "The fried lagman place" because they have amazing fried lagman (it tastes a lot like Chinese noodles). Our other cafes of choice include "Porch cafe", "Smoking baby cafe", "The samsa place", and "The Pizzaria" (that's it's actual name, though I have never been there when they have pizza -- apparently they didnt' even have an oven for years). Needless to say, we have no idea what most of their names actually are, but our names make meeting there easy...
Happy New Year everyone!
And just because it won't get out of my head, here's a favorite song here now: (sung to the tune of Jingle Bells)
Janga Jil
Janga Jil
Janga Janga Janga Jil!

Also, here are some pictures from our Christmas celebration!









Nate's friend came to visit from America and we gave him the best gift ever: besh barmak flavored ramen noodles!








Our 15s (Nate, Lauren, Tristan, Susan,Ted, and Rebecca) singing their version of the 12 days of Christmas









Me, Sarah, and Ariel enjoying the festivities








Ginger and Fritz opening a very Kyrgyz housewarming gift














Joe in Christmas attire and Nate as our Christmas elf
















Me, Martha, Ginger, and Fritz -- the Jalalabad city group!








Action shot of our Christmas Eve spagghetti dinner being devoured.









Nate woke us up on Christmas morning with some Christmas cheer (aka candy canes thrown at us while we were sleeping)















Make-shift Christmas tree and secret santa presents



















Every night is pretty much wall to wall human. There I am in the green! The photographer slept on the far right. This was the not crowded night...

Friday, December 26, 2008

Merry Christmas to all and happy New Years!
I had a great Christmas here -- we had anohter big gathering, with a huge amount of amazing but not exactly traditional food (chili, cornbread, salad, carrots and onions, mashed potatoes, and "Korona" brand champagne), but it was still festive and very fun. We had a secret santa, a christmas tree of paper taped to the wall, and a special performance by the 15s of "The 12 Days of Christmas" that was hilarious. None of you would understand it, but trust me, it was hilarious.
We also had three days of food planned, from the bean dip, ranch dressing, and spaggheti Christmas Eve dinner to yesterday morning's hashbrowns, "tomato yumminess", and scrambled eggs. Sarah and I somehow became the ringleaders of the weekend, which was surprising to me, but nice since it all went so well.
Kyrgyzstan is getting ready for Janga Jill (New Year) celebrations. It's funny to me how this country has picked up America's Christmas traditions and turned them into Janga Jill traditions, without any hint of irony. Everyone has fancy "Janga Jill trees", kids are waiting for Santa to come and bring them Janga Jill presents. They even changed the words of "Jingle Bells" to a Kyrgyz version about Janga Jill.
I will probably be spending Janga Jill with my host family, seeing what Kyrgyz families do for the holiday.
Otherwise, school is pretty much out for the semseter. My school has a 10 day break, followed by me going to Bishkek for a week-long training, so I won't really be back until the last week of January, when my counterpart and I will work on next semester's Calendar plan and a teacher training she and another volunteer have been planning.
Our little family here is breaking up a little -- 2 volunteers are going to America for a month (remember -- if you want to send me anything, Susan will bring it back with her -- her address is in the previous post), and two others are going to China for vacations. It will be strange to have them gone, but I'm sure it will be over faster than I think. It's weird and exciting to think that, if I follow through on my plans, I'll be the one heading home for a vacation at this time next year! Mark your calendars, people, only about 365 days until you can see me again in Charleston!

Friday, December 19, 2008

Yesterday was my three month anniversary of being a real volunteer! After three months of flailing around, I feel like I'm finally where I'm supposed to be. Yesterday, I joined Fritz and Ginger (other Jbad volunteers) for a Kyrgyz class. Getting there involved walking actross the airport runway, which is not something I thought I would ever do. There were also sheep joining us, of course. After our class, I went back to Fritz and Ginger's house, where we spent the next five hours drinking a few beers and just talking, about Peace Corps, volunteers, ourselves, their kids, and pretty much anything. It was really great to be able to relax and made me realize how lucky I am to have such a great group here that I've connected with so well.
This week was our first snow! It's coming down pretty hard right now, and it's really beautiful. All of the Soviet buildings look much better with some snow there to soften the concrete edges...
School is now out for a month-long break. My new counterpart and I will spend a lot of it working on lesson plans and everything for the upcoming semester, which I'm very excited about. I think working with her is going to be amazing, and we're going to do some great things together.
Also, not to sound needy or anything, but if anyone wants to send me anything, there is a volunteer from here going home for a break next week. She'll be there for about a month. She's offered for anyone to send things to her, and she'll bring them back with her. So, if anyone wants to make me feel loved (keep it relitively small, she does have to fly back with it), send anything to:
Susan Nosal
601 Wirsing Ave.
Greensburg, PA 15601
USA!
It should be much easier, cheaper, faster, and more likely to get to me than anything sent via Kyrgyz mail...
Hope the Christmas celebrations are kicking off well for everyone else!